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Dortmund - City

Home to BVB and the Yellow Wall

After Berlin, Dortmund is probably my favourite German city in which to watch football. All the city centre amenities are clustered within a largely pedestrianised central area adjacent to the main railway station, and the Westfalenstadion (to give it its traditional name), my second favourite football ground in the country (after Union Berlin's Alte Försterei), is within walking distance of the city centre pubs (20-25 minutes) or just a short ride away on the underground.

Located in the Ruhrgebiet, the former steel-working and mining heart of West Germany, Dortmund was once also famous for its breweries and now offers visitors not only BVB, the Yellow Wall and the country's national football museum, but also the Dortmund U tower, formerly part of the Dortmunder Union brewery and now housing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art as well as a top-floor cafe with stunning views across the city..

Along with input from friends, I've listed below some tips on where to eat, drink and stay and also on things to see and do. If you have any tips of your own and would like to share them, I'd be happy to add them here. Please just e-mail me at Additionally, you find more tips for visitors to the city on the official Visit Dortmund website.

To keep this page uncluttered, I've not included any photos. Instead, I've put together a selection in this Dortmund City and Stadium Gallery.

You'll also find plenty of photos and countless ideas for things to do over at GetYourGuide.

For hard copy guide books, see my Books page.

Getting to Dortmund

If you're flying into the city from the UK, see my UK Airports page for departure airport information and my Dortmund Airport page for details of your arrival airport. If you're travelling to the Euros by rail, an Interrail pass will cover all your train journeys, while for individual trips within Germany see this page for Deutsche Bahn times and fares. And if your'e coming by coach, then FlixBus have you covered.


Zum alten Markt
I and our group ate at tables outside this olde worlde tavern on the central market square (Markt) before a Union German FA Cup tie against BVB a few years back. Good solid German food and ample selection of beers. My ‘go to’ pub/eaterie in central Dortmund. As the official website linked to above is in German only, here's the Zum alten Markt Tripadvisor page in English.

Another 'tavern style' pub/restaurant on the market square. BVB fan Marc says "for some reason it's always popular with the English!" As the official website linked to above is in German only, here's the Wenkers Tripadvisor page in English.

Mit Schmackes
Co-owned by former Borussia Dortmund double winner Kevin Grosskreutz, this place comes highly recommended by BVB fan Marc, who says "the food there is really good". It's particularly renowned for its schnitzel (pork cutlet in breacrumb coating). As the official website linked to above is in German only, here's the Mit Schmackes Tripadvisor page in English.

L’Osteria, Friedensplatz
Had late-night pizzas here after another BVB vs Union game. Huge pizzas served at long tables, ideal for a big group.


Bergmann Kiosk
Liverpool and Union fan John says "an excellent local craft brewery - I remember going there but not leaving". As the website linked to above is in German only, here's the Bergmann Kiosk page on Cityseeker in English.

Hövels Hausbrauerei
Had a few beers here before Union’s first cup game against BVB four or five years ago. Pub/restaurant with in-house brewery. Typical German place, with lots of wood furniture and panelling. Walked to the ground from here. It took around 20 minutes or so. As the website linked to above is in German only, here's the Hövels Hausbrauerei Tripadvisor page in English.

The Londoner
Another tip from BVB fan Marc, who says he "can definitely recommend it". English-style pub with 24 draught beers. As the website linked to above is in German only, here's The Londoner Pub Facebook page with some English and lots of photos.

Due to open before the Euros. Another pub/restaurant co-owned by ex-BVB man Kevin Groskreutz (see Mit Schmackes above) and therefore expected by fan Marc to be another good place to eat and drink in summer 2024.


German National Football Museum
When I went there a few years ago, the entry price struck me as a bit rich. But there's a lot to see and it's a good way for any football fan to use up some time in between games. I also did some German-to-English translation for this place, so if any of the wording on the information boards doesn't read well to you, they were ones translated by someone else!!

The museum is located just over the road, directly outside the main railway station. 

Advance tickets.

Borrusia Dortmund Museum
If it's open during the Euros (I imagine it will be when the stadium's not staging a game), then the 'Borusseum' is well worth a visit. Lots of interactive exhibits, audio and video. It's located within the stadium structure on the northeast corner, next to the club shop.

Advance tickets.

The Borusseum and club shop are next to the old Stadion Rote Erde, which is also well worth a look. It's incredible to think that BVB played here with crowds of up to 42,000 until as relatively recently as 1974.

Zeche Zollern Mining Museum
If you fancy venturing slightly out of town and learning a bit about the area's mining past, then the former Zollern colliery (Zeche Zollern) is the place to go. The official website calls it "one of the most beautiful testimonies to Germany's industrial past". The website has details of opening hours and on how to get there. Holders of the WelcomeCard Ruhr get free admission.

There are more ideas on things to do here and elsewhere in Germany on my '100 things to do' page.



Mercure Hotel Dortmund City
Have stayed here several times before safe standing meetings / games at the Westfalenstadion. Just round the corner from the main station and directly beside Kampfstrasse underground station, from which you can go straight to the ground.

Express by Holiday Inn 
“Clean and functional” says Crewe fan Ian.

DJH Jugendgästehaus Adolph Kolping
As I've said elsewhere on this site, it's been many years since I was a backpacker staying in hostels, so I can't say I've stayed here myself, but this DJH (German Youth Hostel Association) place is well situated, being just 800m from the main station, right next to one of the big squares in the pedestrianised city centre.

For other hotels on and around the respective matchdays, plus out of town alternatives, see the Dates page.


Camping Hohensyburg
850m walk to Syburg bus stop, then bus and underground via Dortmund-Hörde to Dortmund main station. Total journey time: 57 minutes.

Knaus Campingpark Essen-Werden
1000m walk to Essen Werdener Markt bus stop, then an 18-minute bus ride to Essen main station and 22 minutes on a regional express train to Dortmund.

For campsites for other venues, see my Camping page.

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